2019/2020年秋冬女装时装周：从米兰到巴黎

Louis Vuitton

The Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection created by Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton is a vibrant homage to culture – the culture of museums, the culture of fashion, the culture of the past and of right now. The show took place at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, but models walked the runway in a set that recreated Beaubourg, the famous Centre Pompidou, an emblematic Paris cultural melting pot. This duality between past and present figured at the heart of the collection. Graphic juxtapositions created a dialogue between motifs and materials for silhouettes structured by oversize ruffled collars and jutting shoulders. The Monogram and Damier oscillated on accessories. “I love that impression of a sartorial melting pot. Today, I’ve transposed it at Louis Vuitton: a House of multiple expressions,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director for Louis Vuitton Women’s collections.

Givenchy

Clare Waight Keller, Artistic Director of Givenchy, presented a Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection dubbed “The Winter of Eden”, invoking the origin myth of the Garden of Eden. The temptation that brings Adam and Eve together reveals a seductive silhouette, touched by a polished sense of individuality. A certain duality marks the sculptural aesthetic of the collection as sharp geometric lines reconcile with the innate softness of rounded forms. The silhouettes marry tailoring and flou, with herringbone tweeds and flourishing taffeta, structured coats and flowing dresses.  Embroidery and textures showed brightly against the nocturnal backdrop of the Jardin des Plantes in Paris. The botanical setting was referenced on long pleated dresses with floral prints, as well as python trenchcoats and bags. Accessories spotlighted Givenchy’s “Eden” bag, the latest creation by Clare Waight Keller.

Celine

Hedi Slimane had all eyes facing upwards for the start of the Celine Fall/Winter 2019-2020 show in Les Invalides in Paris as a glass box descended from the sky and the Celine silhouette emerged on the runway, instantly evoking a figure from the collective imagination. An emancipated woman, decisive and proud, embodying the chic à la française of Paris in the late 1970s. Thigh-high black leather fur-lined boots, below-the-knee culotte skirts, white blouses, printed scarves and aviator glasses…Hedi Slimane created silhouettes imbued with a studied vintage inspiration, revisited with exquisite perfection. Tweed, shearling and glitter all joined a wardrobe featuring suit jackets, airy capes and skinny jeans. A collection whose simplicity and retro elegance worked impeccably.

Loewe

Pristine white walls at the Maison de l’UNESCO adorned with miniature portraits of royal notables from Mary Stuart to King Charles I provided the backdrop for the Loewe Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson. The creative director of the Maison opted for a suggestive narrative, a conversation where Loewe’s craft and the form of each silhouette interact. Pigment shades of saffron, cerulean and vermillion break with the uniformity of black, olive, navy, camel, ivory and wine. Smooth leather and satin are worked as surfaces on kimono coats in checkerboard or striped patterns. The singular character of the show was expressed in winged skullcaps in a variety of materials, as well as Chelsea boots with beechwood heels. For accessories, Loewe presented a new Lantern bag with a gilded metal interior that references the “Straeter Lite-On” of the 1950s. The form of the Lazo handbag is reinvented and the Puzzle and Gate bags are revisited in striped leather.

Kenzo

灵感源自对品牌典藏设计的重新演绎，在第四个Memento系列中，创意总监Carol Lim和Humberto Leon突显多种多样、色彩丰富的印花和图案，来致敬创始人高田贤三（Kenzo Takada）的梦幻世界。。这些印花以多种形式进行重新演绎，贯穿于2019/2020秋冬系列的所有主要作品中。现实主义风格棉质单品装饰红色和黄色番茄图案，而在T恤、毛衣和衬衫上印有蓝色或浅棕色的喷绘老虎图案。Kenzo还首次展示了其“跑虎”图案。借鉴自1992春夏女装系列的超图形“K”图案如今以双色配色重现于半裙和连衣裙上。第4个Memento系列的创新之处还体现在推出“秀后即买”模式，时装秀次日所有作品均可在全球品牌商店和kenzo.com上买到。

Dior

在Dior 2019/2020秋冬女装系列中，艺术总监Maria Grazia Chiuri将注意力转向了“Teddy Girls（泰迪女孩）”，灵感源自与之相对的1950年代英国早期亚文化群体之一“Teddy Boys（泰迪男孩）”，以此重温战后时期迪奥先生（Christian Dior）所引领的“新风貌”（New Look）风潮。Teddy Girls梳着华丽的发型，身穿爱德华时代风格的男装外套，搭配宽大蓬松的半身裙、牛仔裤和黑色皮革夹克。Maria Grazia Chiuri深入挖掘时常给予Christian Dior以灵感的英国文化，，为下一个冬季打造出一个完全现代风格的女性服装系列。在这些经过重新演绎的经典服装中，有线条更阳刚、以高科技面料制作的Bar套装，以及最初由Yves Saint Laurent为Dior设计的黑色皮衣。借助于现代材料和工艺，Miss Dior连衣裙的经典廓形彰显艺术总监所钟情的力量和优雅。新版Toile de Jouy图案出现在一系列黑红或黑白配色格纹和条纹衬衫上。

Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci在米兰时装周期间展示2019冬季女装系列，为人们奉上一场日式庭院之旅。本时装秀以经典的Pucci印花软绸为主线，搭配拼接羊毛和绣有亮片的晚礼服等新纺织服装进行了全新演绎。柔和的粉彩色系与纯铁蓝色和火红色调形成对比美感。褶皱真丝软绸柔美贴合身体曲线，金银丝长袖女衬衫经过重新诠释，搭配充满异国情调的和服袖亮相。个性配饰为Pucci女士造型添加别样风采，包括银色鞋头皮靴和高跟鞋、饰有流苏的水桶包和超大单只耳环。